Produced by Virtuoso with the Istria Tourist Board
May 18, 2026

This charming Croatian peninsula is a case study in slow travel.

While Dubrovnik and Split greet the cruise ships and summer crowds, travelers in Istria are sipping malvazija on sun-drenched vineyard terraces, embracing the quieter side of Croatia’s beauty. Weekends spent on the Istrian peninsula unfold at a leisurely pace, savoring award-winning extra-virgin olive oils amid the groves and pedaling through the Mirna River Valley’s truffle-rich forests. Jutting into the Adriatic Sea like an arrowhead, Croatia’s Istria region is compact enough to drive across in a couple of hours, but worthy of a few days of lingering.

With storybook villages, rolling vineyards, and dreamy beach coves, Istria delivers Euro summer in one of the most authentic ways possible. Bonus: For travelers already visiting the Mediterranean, a stop in Istria is a natural add-on – the destination is only a one-hour flight from Trieste. Three days is just enough time to live like a local – immersing yourself in the region’s idyllic scenery, hyperlocal cuisine, and laid-back lifestyle.

A stone arcade off Groznjan’s main square.Robert Pilepic

Day One: Check In, Then Get Inspired in Groznjan

Perched among olive groves and cypress trees near the town of Buje, the San Canzian Hotel & Residences has the feel of a private Istrian estate, with clusters of terra-cotta-roofed stone buildings dotting the peaceful countryside. The hotel’s 26 rooms feature a mix of rustic charm and contemporary conveniences: French doors open to breezy balconies, antique case goods mingle with sculptural bedside lighting, and colorful artwork brightens earthy-gray walls. After settling in, join guests and locals for a farm-to-table lunch at the on-site Luciano restaurant, whose menu spotlights platters of Istrian cheeses and charcuterie and bowls of black truffle pasta.

Afternoon ambitions: Take a ten-minute drive west to Groznjan, a hilltop medieval town overlooking the Mirna Valley and the coastal enclaves of Novigrad and Umag. An artists’ colony since the 1960s, Groznjan is home to some 20 galleries and ateliers tucked into narrow stone alleys – a stroll through town leads past ceramic studios and watercolor painters working in open doorways. Visit the main square’s Fonticus Gallery to catch rotating exhibitions by local and regional artists, and in July, linger in Groznjan until sundown, when the annual Jazz Is Back! festival fills the quaint streets with lively tunes from global musicians.

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Benvenuti’s vineyards are home to Istria’s native teran red grapes.

Day Two: Drink and Dine Along Istria’s Wine Roads 

Nicknamed the Tuscany of Croatia, the Istrian peninsula is blessed with mineral-rich terroir that yields distinct, aromatic wines across dozens of boutique and family-owned vineyards. Wine is deeply rooted in everyday life here – a wine-paired dinner is de rigueur – and thanks to Istria’s compact layout, winery hopping is a breeze. From the San Canzian Hotel, a ten-minute drive north lands travelers in the Momjan wine region and at the 135-year-old Kabola, where vintners age malvazija and teran varieties in oak barrels and traditional amphorae (clay pots).

A 30-minute drive south from Kabola climbs through oak forest and terraced hillsides to the medieval town of Motovun, where new developments have boosted the area’s modern vinophile reputation. The Fakin family’s winery features a panoramic terrace that overlooks Motovun, the Mirna Valley, and the Ucka Mountains – it’s a view that convinces visitors to linger over a glass (or two) of malvazija Istarska longer than planned. A 12-minute drive southeast, the Benvenuti brothers just completed a new cellar on the slopes of Santa Elisabetta, where their signature teran grapes have grown for decades. The design is intended to settle into the hillside rather than compete with it, with views over the quiet village of Kaldir and across to Motovun.

Before heading back to the hotel, drop into the blue-shuttered Ponte Porton, a family-run restaurant in the hamlet of Kostanjica. Chef Gaia Zec took over her mother’s kitchen at 18 and has since become one of Croatia’s most closely watched young culinary voices. Her cooking stays true to Istrian tradition while showcasing a confident modern hand, best experienced through dishes such as hand-rolled fuzi pasta with game ragù, slow-braised beef cheek with dried plum sauce, and pistachio lava cake with vanilla ice cream.

The Parenzana cycling trail cuts through Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia. Julien Duval

Day Three: Take a Spin on the Parenzana

Following the ghost of a narrow-gauge railway, the Parenzana cycling trail stretches 76 miles from the Istrian peninsula’s southernmost tip to Trieste, Italy, cutting through Slovenia along the way. The 48-mile Croatian portion snakes along the Adriatic coastline before winding inland over green hills, through olive groves, and past medieval towns. Virtuoso advisors can arrange guided bike excursions on a section of the trail, with a pickup near the hotel. 

A pedal to the picturesque village of Livade, tucked in the Mirna Valley below Motovun, rewards cyclists with another one of Istria’s treasures: decadent truffles. Stop for lunch at Zigante Tartufi (named for the hunter whose dog unearthed the world’s largest white truffle in 1999) for truffles shaved over tagliolini or folded into scrambled eggs. Or coast into the Ipsa estate, where a sommelier pairs three selections of extra-virgin olive oil and wines with cured meats, prosciutto and sausages, cheeses, bruschetta, and homemade bread, followed by a tour of the olive mill and groves.

After a morning on the trail, return to San Canzian to open a bottle and lounge by the infinity pool all afternoon – after all, an idle moment in Istria is time well spent.